The Ultimate Colour Analyzed Cosmetics

Suzie Greif, the owner of Spectrafiles, sent me a makeup kit at Christmas. Suzie is the daughter of Kathryn Kalisz, founder of the Sci\ART Personal Colour Analysis (PCA) method. Spectrafiles is the new company that is now producing the Colour Books of swatches. It was a lovely and thoughtful gift, but I have only been using it for a couple of weeks. Why? Because I had never loved loose powder makeup before. It always seemed to end up on the counter or some other place it wasn’t supposed to be.

I eventually opened the packages because the colours looked so impressive – and have used them every single day since. Believe me when I tell you that they are fabulous. The powder sticks to the brush for one thing. It’s the other brands of eyeshadows that I’m sweeping off my cheek. The Reveal product from eleablake is completely controllable. It diffuses perfectly onto the skin, no grabbing or jumping. The pigment deposit is noticeable but not shocking and easily adjusted.

The makeup colours that look most believable and attractive on your face are the colours that are already in your face. Personal Colour Analysis is the system whereby you learn exactly what those colours are, every red, blue, pink, green, brown, grey, your day lipstick, your truly perfect customized red, and so on. But even when you know, finding right makeup colour is not easy. Many colour analysts help you get started by sending you a list of specific products, but you’re still spending hours looking at so many products that it may feel overwhelming.

I loved the colours of the eyeshadows, blush, and glosses. In fact, they were remarkable. Once you know your Season, you become a very discriminating makeup shopper because you know exactly which colours will look most natural on you and you don’t want to put down money for second best. Sometimes knowing exactly what you want makes an item harder to find. These products colours were right on and so were the other shades on the colour layout card that came in the kit. How could they not be perfect? They began as the 12 Season colour palettes in a PCA system that is astoundingly precise in every single person. Here is a scan of my Dark Winter card (remember that the colours will lose a little ground in the scan, but they really are perfect):

For all the Seasons, especially the Darks, I love that there are light lipstick choices already thought out for you. If you like purple or blue makeup, choose the right purple or blue so it can look artistic and interesting, instead of trendy. The fact that foundation and bronzer have been matched to undertone is just so good.

Who is the woman behind this genius? Meet Darin Wright, owner of eleablake studios and the woman who designed the Reveal Cosmetic collection. For everyone who ever thought grey hair cannot look young, think again. Darin is proof that when you know your best colours, you know your best makeup. Seriously, could this woman look more fantastic? This is so much more what real beauty is than a teenager in a magazine.

I asked Darin to tell you a bit about why she undertook this huge task, and how she became the person actually who got it right:

I have been a makeup artist for over twenty years and have found it imperative to ensure that my clients received the best possible colors for their skin. I believe that all persons should have a personal color analysis performed in order to reach their power colors, or colors that help them enhance their beauty. I created the Elea Blake cosmetic line before becoming a color analyst. The concept was and has continued to be, to custom blend every client that comes into our studio. We create a palette for our clients one on one and have endless possibilities with our color blending techniques.

Several years ago I revisited the concept of Personal Color Analysis for my clients. I was familiar with the concept from my days in the oh, so fashionable 80s but felt that the system had yet to be refined. I was always fascinated by the concept but was not completely sold on it. I had found that some clients just did not match up with the results available at the time. I started to research several companies on the market finding most unsatisfactory until I met Kathryn Donovan, owner and creator of the Sci\Art system. I was completely and utterly impressed by her extensive knowledge and professional draping system. Her system offered the correct tools, teaching, and support. The clients’ results were so accurate! Personas changed and brightened before your very eyes!

Reveal collection Soft Summer colours.

More from Darin:

While utilizing this system I saw how fantastic it would be to create ready-made cosmetic colors to go with the Seasonal palettes. For example, if you are a Bright Winter you have a ready-made collection created from that palette. At Elea Blake we have tested each color to ensure that it matches the specific 12 Tone palettes that Kathryn developed. This task was accomplished with many a long night and a frustrated sigh. I personally reviewed each color to make sure that the color would fit into the palette it was created for. The time involved in this process was lengthy and exhausting. The result is the beautiful Reveal Collection.

The most fascinating aspect about these color collections is that there are few rules and endless possibilities! These colors are designed for the creative core in all of us. They bring one back to the days spent with colorful arrays of crayons and construction paper. They are really that simple! You can use these colors alone or layer, blend, and build them. Each color in its prospective palette harmonizes with every other color, so you just cannot mess up! That is exactly the way these palettes are designed. Another extraordinaryaspect about these colors, are that most of the colors can be used for a multitude of uses. Foundations can double as eyeshadows, eyeliners can be shadows, blushers can be bronzers or eyeshadows, perhaps even eyeliners.

There is also a bonus pack of colors designed for those longing for the extra spark to their makeup, with hipilicious shades that can be used as highlights, pops, or accents. These are palette friendly optional picks. We refer to use these as eye toners, as they can be mixed or blended with all the palettes.

Reveal collection Dark Autumn colours.

Darin can be contacted through her website , by email at, or at eleablake studios in Chattanooga, TN.



9 thoughts on “The Ultimate Colour Analyzed Cosmetics”

  1. Hi Christine, I was given one of the sets from this range, and was also analysed under the sci/art system. I don’t like the colours and I have to be honest they don’t match my new sci\art fan. Is it the fan or the make up which is wrong. Please help.

  2. I rarely use makeup. That makes me more impressed, not less – you don’t need to be a connoisseur to see how insanely arbitrary and how little sense of directional compass the industry has. To someone cosmetically naive, this is the logical extension and end-point of 12 tone analysis, which was already one heck of a rigorous shake for an industry that thrives on change and confusion. It’ll arm consumers regarding colour as Paula’s Choice did for content.

    There will be imitations – companies are already beginning to organise selections by skin tone and colouring, though it’s still pretty crude for the most part. I wish Sci-Art and Darin all the very best in bringing order and meaning to a hydra-headed industry, and hope the original innovators get the recognition they deserve.

    A pre-packed palette that makes sense. Now there’s something new.

    Will all make-up be sold like this, one day?

  3. Hi Clare,

    I am so sorry that you are experiencing challenges with your colors. Don’t be alarmed if the dots do not match exactly. Each of our seasonal color kits were created to match exactly or harmonize with the Sci/Art color dots.

    The process as you can imagine was quite the challenge. Each color was designed then tested by a series of breaking down the color into tones and families. Then the color was tested using the master book of Sci/Art color dots which Kathryn Donovan created and prepared.

    We want to help you with your powder dots so to speak. What I have found in the past is that sometimes the colors can be intimidating. For instance I am a bright winter and my dots were very intimidating to me at first. I have experienced this with many other women as well.

    Because our minerals are blended per seasonal tone while they may look too bright or deep once applied harmonize with the individual. The colors are also intended for the individual to embrace color and become their own mixologist within the color palette. Try tempering the colors by visiting a color in your kit that has more depth or lightness to it. You would be amazed at how many additional eye colors you can get out of the 12-15 in the collection.

    If you are local I would so love for you to bring your swatchbook and colors into our studio so that I could work with you personally. If a visit to our studio is not available please feel free to contact me at 423-266-6222.

    Your feedback is very important to us and I want to help you in anyway I can. We want you to be completely happy with your colors!



  4. Darin, I’m just read over your post again, and I’m trying to imagine matching pigment blends to swatches 25 or 30 times and then twelve times over and then exercising quality control after that.


    Alas, I am not in the US, so there’s no telling when we’ll see this system in Australia. I’m not sure it’s for everyone (not everyone is inclined to diversify and experiment to the extent that so many options in a full palette would allow, plus I imagine folks would settle on favourites and so there’d be a lot of redundancy unless you can then order a smaller custom selection of specific colours), but for those who love to play it’d be a terrific take-home cornucopia – like being able to distill an entire store department into a set of personalised swatches. Excellent if you hate trying on makeup any time, and especially if you hate doing it front-of-house in the local department store – imagine being able to take the lot home and get your head around it all at leisure in natural light and uninhibited privacy (a big issue for those who’ve never used much of the stuff in the past).

  5. I can see people using this to perfect their existing stash, too – blending and segueing.

  6. Nynd,

    I have to say that your writing is well quite eloquent! I so wish I had the gift of both speech and writing but alas my daughters (Elea and Blake) pester me for my lack of grammar and poor communication skills. Thank God for them! LOL!

    You can actually purchase basic colors in your palette. The kits offer a little bit of all the colors then you can decide which colors you would like to purchase in larger sizes. We offer two different retail sizes. An eyeliner size for U.S. $10.50 and an eyeshadow size for U.S. $18.00. Again these colors last a long time. We suggest to our clients that they get eyeshadow size colors of those that they anticipate using a lot of (such as a basic taupe, cream, etc) and eyeliner sizes for those that they would use as pops, eyeliners, or accents.

    I have enjoyed your comments – Thank you!

  7. Not only does Elea Blake offer luscious cosmetic colors, they also sell some of the best brushes you can buy. I reach for them much more often than I do my MAC brushes. EB’s bronzer brush is especially well-designed to pick up the lightest dusting of pigment, as nothing looks more fake than too-heavy bronzer. Her brush sets come with a how -to-use CD that explains the best use of each brush. I can’t recommend these sets highly enough.

  8. Darin, do you ship internationally? I’m fearing not as the website doesn’t like my non-US details ….

  9. Nynd so sorry you are having difficulties. I thought that we had addressed that specific concern as we recently had a couple of international sales that cleared. We are currently working on correcting the problem. It seems it may take longer than expected. I would be happy to assist you personally. Please feel free to email me directly with your order and telephone number including country code ao that I may contact you.

    Thank you for your patience and understanding,

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