All posts by Christine Scaman

How to Choose Eyeshadow for Your Eye Colour

In this post, I explain 3 ways to use your 12 Season colour palette to choose colours in eyeshadow that enhance eye colour and flatter skin tone at the same time.

In the video, I talk about why using complementary colours to intensify eye colour works best they come from your Season palette, a formula that’s pre-configured to work for all your colour choices.

Thank you to C. who sent in a great question and got me thinking about this topic:

I have blue-gray eyes and wearing the blue colors in my fan really makes my iris color pop… I wear the Ego eye shadow from your store with my beautiful blues.

However, I’ve been studying makeup theory and application this past week and all the advice out there says to use orange and terra cotta eye shadow to make the blue color of my iris stand out. Problem is — those colors aren’t in my fan and they certainly are too warm to go with my underlying skin tone, regardless of what they’re doing to my eyes.

The names Ego and After Dark are linked to their pages in the 12 Blueprints Store, or may be found in the store’s in the Soft Summer and True Autumn collections, respectively.

In her last sentence, C. brilliantly answered her own question. Taking one feature out of context of the whole is not the way to harmonious (everything looks great together) beauty.

We are not floating eyes, any more than a garden is floating flowers. Eyes need a framework to be effective and part of a whole picture. We want the canvas of the face to meet and the bone structure to support the eyes. Therefore, skin matters as much as eyes.

The video is also here on YouTube.

3 ways to enhance eye colour:

1. Repeat the natural colours. Ego does a beautiful job of this for the blue-greens in Soft Summer eyes. The palette knows our real colours better than we know them ourselves. Do this if the colour makes sense. Winter eyes can contain a lot of strong yellow, not an easy choice for the skin as a cosmetic, but superb as an element in a print.

2. Warm to cool contrast in your Season. This works especially well for Neutral Seasons to take advantage of the warm to cool ranges in these types of colouring. One example is once again Soft Summer’s Ego for Soft Summers with more warmth in the eye colours. Ego’s coolness results in eyes that seem even richer and warmer, an amazing contrast with cool skin and clothing, an impression that is surprising, original, and still perfectly put together.

A second example is in Bright Winter with visible yellow in their dark brown eyes. Warm or yellow-brown eyeliner would be a less-than-best choice. Purple-brown, OTOH, is fabulous, enhancing the skin and making the eyes glow. Quite fabulous next to cool skin or hair colour.

3. Complementary colours. Go to this complementary colour generator. Choose a colour in the top row to the right of the wheel, and in the second row next to Choose a Harmony, click Complementary. Play with it a bit. Watch the colour blocks beneath the wheel and then watch the strip along the left edge of it as they change real time.

Choose a colour on the wheel that seems close to your eye colour. Don’t worry about being too exact, we are all unlikely to guesstimate with perfect accuracy.

You might also try sampling the eye colours from a photograph, as I did for the first three in the chart below. We each have many eye colours and use clothing and cosmetics to enhance all of them.

Using The Complimentary Colour Chart

1.  True Spring with light yellow green eyes.

Could this beauty of a purple be a reminder of why Springs look so phenomenal when they wear colour?

Perhaps unlikely to be worn as cosmetics, but spectacular in an ensemble. Choose the colour in your Season palette that is closest and head to the stores for a scarf, earrings, or anywhere else you can find it.

2. True Summer with gray-green eyes.

And could this explain why wardrobe neutrals look so great on Summers? This colour could serve as eyeshadow any day.

3. True Autumn with rust in the eyes.

Well, would you look at that? The complementary green is close to the colour of the After Dark eyeshadow accent.

4. True Winter and a green.

For this one, I used an approximate of the green drapes that energize the eyes and entire appearance, instead of sampling from a photograph.

Voila, complement. Not an eyeshadow for most of us, but in blush or lipstick? Exciting eyes and exciting mouth.

Learn your colours

Stop searching for “Who am I?” and move on to “What are the magic tricks I already have?”

I promise you, they are amazing. Your Season palette has worked out all the secrets.

 

 

An Update for 12 Blueprints

As the video below says, a new look for this website will appear in 2 to 3 months.

To make it easier to find topics, several older articles will be deleted. Many articles will remain, and some may have a banner stating “This post is outdated.” so you know that this is more current information available elsewhere.

The ‘more current information’ may be found in the second edition of RTYNC, or RTYNC2, the book with the most recent information about my vision and application of colour analysis and the 12 Seasons. It is here or at the top of the left column of this page.

I am asked the difference between editions 1 and 2. Tina answers your question in her review:

If you have the first edition, you are in for a treat, because this book is so much more detailed and in depth. Christine has clearly amassed a wealth of information since the writing of the first edition and graciously opens up that treasure trove to us. Certainly, some elements of the original book remain, but this is a brand new publication. What I love about this is, her descriptive writing forces you to engage your imagination. Even if you have read a particular chapter several times, you will learn something new each instance you review it. The tale of colors in nature has really been told, from the darkness of midnight to the heights of noontime. If you are a color and image enthusiast, I consider this publication a must have.

During the changeover, the 12 Blueprints Store will remain open to purchase cosmetics and Neutrals  Sets customized for your natural colouring.

The video is also here on YouTube.

 

The women in the videos

Anyone watch the foundation video in the previous post?

The face in today’s video has added:

  • Powder
  • Blush
  • Lip colour
  • More eyeliner
  • Energy from the neck down! Balance the entire picture before deciding about the parts. Know when to stop for the look you want. Effective, exciting appearance has an endpoint, or it’s overdone. Energy goes up, the facial bones frame the eyes, the book talks about this on page 69.

That post ended with me asking you to notice without deciding.  The first woman and this one. One woman, Two versions.

First, be a colour analyst. When students are trained, and as my clients recognize, this is our plan with the first set of drapes. We get together to notice, not judge. We are a team, paying attention to all that is happening in the mirror, without any bias. Whatever happens, it just gets noticed.

Hold up, this isn’t apples to apples, because both outfits might be in my palette, or not in it.

Wearing makeup is every woman’s choice. No better, no worse.

Our look has to work in the real world, meaning the approximate average of everyone else’s opinion. If we’re the only one who gets the intention, and everyone else sees something else, it might be time for a new outfit, makeup, and hair. As you see from the header image, I’m strongly attracted to the concept of renewal (Photo Credit: Sonja Mason).

New Q:

Be the public, as the book asks us to do. Be the person hiring, the person looking at images on websites and LinkedIn, the salesperson who sees these two women enter a store, the person sitting across from them at the 9AM meeting.  Would you react to them in the same way?

Now be the woman. Imagine that she’s seeking a new partner or position where competition is stiff. How do these women feel about themselves?

Speculate, wonder, be curious, but don’t decide. Quite challenging, would you agree?

Whatever your feelings about the amount of makeup or colours, most would agree that this woman and the one in the foundation video look different. They may evoke different feelings from you.

This isn’t an argument for or against makeup. Either one is absolutely fine. It’s just a statement of what is. Look at these women like any stranger sees us, non-emotionally, non-invested in our story.

Your colour analyst can offer you either look or anywhere in between once your own colours are known. Both women could have chosen far less appealing hair colour and clothing, and we can colour-consult you away from those too.

These women may be a demo of how different some faces, especially Winter-coloured faces, can look with or without makeup. These can be fairly colourless appearances till you see what the appearance needs to look normal.

Begin with a neutral face add clothes in neutral colours, as we did in the first video. What does the appearance communicate? No right or wrong. Pick the one you want.

Too much colour in video 2? Too much contrast? Maybe but before deciding, keep in mind:

a) You’re not in the room; does anybody or anything ever look identical to pictures? The lights are powerful, my eyes may not be this glassy.

b) You have not seen the other choices of colours or cosmetics on these women, the ones that were disqualified.

c) this is a max look,  often the one shown in online draping images, with the brightest and most opaque lipstick at the end of a sequence of lip colours.

Maybe your preference is halfway between the two women; fine and easy to achieve.

Too much colour or contrast on the second woman? Maybe. Keep in mind confirmation bias.  Our eye often picks the first thing it sees and decides, “There, that’s good, what I decided about it is right, and everything else will be compared to it.”   Well, yes and no, read the excellent post at Psychology Today on confirmation bias, “the tendency to see new things in light of previous things that we have already assumed are true”.

The influence of our desires, emotions, and illusions on what we believe is fine unless no other person can corroborate our decisions (even though most people tell us they do).  If I’d shown the videos in opposite order, we might make another decision.

Too much colour or contrast on the second woman?  Maybe. Keep in mind narrative bias, looking for patterns and reasons when it’s too early (in the analysis) for there to be any. I enjoy having many women MDs among my clients, who understand how our stories influence our decisions.

Is it ourselves that we need to be free of?

As the second article says, it can be liberating.

 

Choosing and Mixing Foundation

I doubt that any woman would tell you that foundation is easy to find. For the benefits, we’re willing to put up with it.

Any tips that make it easier are welcome. It might take a couple or three shopping expeditions for samples. Be patient. The payoff can be big.

Do a little research first. All shopping success begins with knowing what you’re looking for and what you will not be talked into, meaning know your colours.

For foundation, Season is less helpful. Know the formulation you want instead. I begin at Beautypedia and the product below and in the video is here on that awesome resource. In Canada, I bought it at Sephora.

Set out your sample tubs. Line up some cotton swabs and make stripes on your lower cheek and jaw. Look for the closest 2 or 3, ideally warmer and cooler, without trying for perfect yet.

Try mixing two together, either on a clean spoon or the side of the face. Take your best guess. If makeup makes you nervous, pretend you’re adjusting wall paint a few degrees either way.

I’m not one iota more artistic than you are, probably less. I just don’t accept that the colours in the foundation industry are the  most real-skin they could be, regardless of the price or fame of the line.

It’s not us. It’s never us. We’re fine and normal. It’s them. Granted, they have a big task. Skin colour is a huge topic, too big to cover every person in 10 or 20 groups.

We start with the many choices available, narrow them down, and adapt them to work for us. Just like we do with Season, fitness, diet, and everything else. Jump in.

From L to R, Bare Minerals Complexion Rescue in Vanilla, Wheat, and Natural, spaced to give you a sense of the colours independently.

I end up with Vanilla and Wheat. Natural is the dark one that I remove.

I don’t mention this in the video but common sense tells us that more product must be applied to be an effective sunscreen. This product is sheer enough to be nicely buildable.

At some point, all makeup stops looking like skin. I prefer to apply sunscreen first and use less makeup, this one being my favourite under makeup for its fluid texture and matte finish.

A search under Sun Protection at Paula’s Choice offers many choices. Try samples of several  (on the product page where you select quantity) to find your favourite. I alternate 3 or 4 of them and try every new one.

The video is also here on YouTube.


For the next video, I’ll add 4 things: powder, blush, lip colour, and more eye makeup. I also change my top. It will be posted in about a week.

I will ask you to do what colour analysts do: begin by noticing without deciding. See you then.

Book Purchase Success

If you have already purchased the book:

Thank you for your purchase.

Your book will ship as soon as possible (guaranteed 1-6 days, more likely within 3 days).

No further shipping confirmation will be issued. (The parcel is  not tracked.)

Please disregard the PayPal notification that states, “The seller hasn’t provided shipping details yet.”

I hope you enjoy reading Return to Your Natural Colours!

 

 

Return to Your Natural Colours Edition 2

Here at last.

With our appearance,

We tell the world, “This is who I am.”

Actually, “This is who I think I am.”

And they respond, “If you say so.”

On our own, we’re usually incorrect or incomplete.

As in life, we must manage our expectations of others.

With this book and the colour palette from your colour analyst, you will learn to manage what they see for your greatest result.

But, guaranteed, your Season cannot be known by reading this book. You need to visit a colour analyst first.

Our best appearance means moving towards ourselves, the image of us painted in our own colours.

You will find your real beauty. Your colours will sing.  The shapes of your facial bones will become slender and focussed. Your ancestry may emerge.

An alternative reality might float up, the one where you were meant to live.  As you see yourself differently, holding back change may take more effort than letting it in.

 

> The video is also here at YouTube.

Paperback

CDN$38.10

To buy more than one copy, please e-mail me (christine@12blueprints.com) with the quantity, your mailing address, and the email for your PayPal account.

Tax

Canada only.

5% Canada-wide.

Included in prices below, as appropriate.

Shipping

Canada Post.

Air Mail. Delivery:  2 weeks – 2 months depending on distance and passage through local Customs.

NO tracking.

Choose your destination:

1. Canada Ontario/Quebec (shipping CN14.09) = CN54.09.




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2. Canada East/West and USA (shipping CN18.41) = CN58.66.




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3. EU (shipping CN40.99) = CN79.09.




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4. All other global destinations (shipping CN48.37) = CN86.47.




—–
E-books

The entire book and each of the 12 Season chapters will become available in this format.

E-books may exclude the colour layouts. Purchasers of single chapters will have the more accurate palette from their colour analyst.

When? In the near future.

Where? Probably this website.

At what price? CN$8.99 or similar.

Locations? Early research suggests North America only. The reason: with digital products, the EU requires that VAT be registered/recorded/remitted by the seller. This is an ambitious request for businesses such as mine. A financial threshold is expected in 2019 and the situation may change.

How to Look Expensive Part 3

The links

Added above instead of below, which I say in the video.

How to Look Expensive Part 1 is here.

How to Look Expensive Part 2 at Calla Studio is here.

Louise Penny is here, the book I refer to is The Murder Stone.

“Better than the You you were  yesterday.”,  by Coach Kozak at HasFit.  Me, Coach, and Claudia, every dang day. They’ve made me better at life (another Coach-ism) and I support them.

Ted Chiang

The quote I mention, thank you to Naomi of Eastman Colour Consulting in Vancouver for sharing it with me.

Think of cocaine. In its natural form, as coca leaves, it’s appealing, but not to an extent that it usually becomes a problem. But refine it, purify it, and you get a compound that hits your pleasure receptors with an unnatural intensity. That’s when it becomes addictive. Beauty has undergone a similar process, thanks to advertisers. Evolution gave us a circuit that responds to good looks—call it the pleasure receptor for our visual cortex—and in our natural environment, it was useful to have.
But take a person with one-in-a-million skin and bone structure, add professional makeup and retouching, and you’re no longer looking at beauty in its natural form. You’ve got pharmaceutical-grade beauty, the cocaine of good looks. Biologists call this “supernormal stimulus”; show a mother bird a giant plastic egg, and she’ll incubate it instead of her own real eggs. Madison Avenue has saturated our environment with this kind of stimuli, this visual drug. Our beauty receptors receive more stimulation than they were evolved to handle; we’re seeing more beauty in one day than our ancestors did in a lifetime. And the result is that beauty is slowly ruining our lives.

– Ted Chiang,  Stories of Your Life and Others

It’s personal now

Feeling good in the colours we wear has to be personal.

When there’s no point of focus, we dance around our ‘look’ and can’t get it nailed down.

A little scary to look back on some of those purchases.

Where is the advice that’s for us, about us?

Where’s the script that we could read, that role we’d be cast in, where we don’t have to learn the lines over&over that keep changing?

So we follow generic advice.

It’s like being spammed by sales pages that we want to ignore but buy anyway.

Everybody’s doing it, it must be the answer.

We want to turn away, but towards what?

Towards ourselves, that’s what.

We want to look original because we are original. We want to look like us in away that we can recognize, still within that consensual reality that we all inhabit.

Everything comes back to how colour relates to you. If it doesn’t, cut it loose and don’t look back.

Colour analysis gives you that answer. And a door opens, and it’s peaceful and strong on the other side.

The video is also here at YouTube.

 

 

  1. Have believable hair colour.

Hair colour can look phenomenal if it’s done right.

The range of colours we wear well is fairly narrow, and by wear well, I mean fine to fantastic.

Lipstick isn’t red because of haemoglobin. Only human (and animal) lips are. Hair dye isn’t brown because of melanin. Only human (and animal) hair is. They form relationships with us, which may enhance, dominate, define, conflict or do a whole range of things on a different scale than human pigments would.

Hair colour is also right next to the face, always in the viewer’s awareness and reacting as strongly with skin as makeup does, or more if the area is larger.

Choose hair colour the way you choose attire or jewelry. How does the colour look with your whole palette, not just the most similar swatch or dot?

2. Forget about how clothes look with each other. Think about how they look with you. If the viewer has to step waaaay up or waaaay down to get from you to your lipstick, hair, or clothing, no adjustment can look like money.

If the viewer can’t tell where the clothes end and the person begins, what can you do? Wear a pile of makeup. Women sense that they’re disappearing, which is when odd stuff is added to show up again. There’s a better way.

Wear what you are. Narrow the gap between you and your clothing.

Not saying, look like your clothes, blend into your clothes, disappear into your clothes, and other variations on the theme.

Saying, look more like yourself, more You, with energy under your face that is still a continuation of you (not more than you), better together.

There I was, for decades, matching clothes with clothes, never dawning on me to factor me into the equation. With PCA, I knew how. With my palette, I could see myself in front of me. Imagine if you could put your head on the counter to do your hair. Makes life easier.

If you’re not sure about your own colours, try making combinations with your attire and hair colour. Would you put the two together in a print? No point looking at your eyes, they’re too complex to use as a guide. A garment colour can be out in left field; eyes may improve and the face may lose. Eyes contain a ton of information but it has to be read in context of a face. You need a professional colour analyst to sort that out.

3. Add navy. It’s available and one of the most forgiving colours when we’re not sure of our exact shade. Navy has a voice and looks like tradition, which can be associated with money.

Black can look like empty real estate for a few reasons. Make the rest of the outfit colourful or interesting so the viewer has something to look at.

We worry that colour will look narcissistic or self-involved, and someone might think “she’s more into herself than into me’ but that’s not what happens. No Season is a circus. Don’t let yourself be hijacked by fear and extremes.

4. NVM looking young. Or Rich. Go for modern and present.

A. Modern translates to current, a form of youth. Syn.: with it, keeping up with the times. Managing the present, not the past. Clothing, cosmetics, and hair colour that are 5 years ago, or a 5 years ago version of us, read to the viewer as outdated, old-fashioned, the opposite of youth.

Women want to look current, they see it as a sign of youth (true), which reinforces impressions of health and vitality. This is the right way to look young because it rings true. Money doesn’t need anyone to believe anything.

The idea of silver hair looking old, even that’s 5 years ago in the face of too much current proof that the opposite is true. I hear about women who work with the young and feel they need hair dye, and I think, “This is in your head, not theirs. It may be your ideas that need updating.”

B. Present. And accounted for, in the room, at the table. Visible, solid, grounded, wearing effective makeup, a healthy glow that’s not a yellow cast, and hair colour that’s right for today’s skin. Colour can give you all those (or take them away).

5. Let’s find your lipstick shade. Let’s find you four or five. If they’re discontinued, big deal. You’ll know how find a few more.

After your PCA, you’ll go back into the stores and be amazed at how much you’ve changed. Meanwhile, they stayed the same. Exactly the same.

6. Eyes show up best when we put lips on our face. If we’re Winters, we show up when we put lips on our face.

That doesn’t mean fire engine lips. Your colour analyst has options to show you.

7. Hair as the supporting cast, knowing the balance between definite style and part of identity. Is there a man alive whose hair is doing anything besides being there, especially in business? Eventually, if the hair is too big a player, folks are looking at it, listening to it, and so on.

8. Shoes as the supporting cast with a definite style, that you can walk in as comfortably as the men in the office. What looks pretty in pictures or eye candy seated at a table isn’t so great when the stride is awkward. Movies, ay? Nobody I see can walk in those shoes. Money doesn’t try. It just is.

9. Black, white, and the near colourless neutrals (steel, charcoal, ice).

So much of our taste is anchored in human visual perception and the planet’s calendar.

When colours are bright, distance is harder to gauge so things look flatter: Spring, Winter.

When colours are softer, our eye has a chance to notice light to dark as near to far graduations, so we sense textures and depth: Summer, Autumn.

Winter type neutrals: The least pigmented the neutrals set the stage for the most colourful colours. Wearing Winter neutrals with soft colours shows the viewer a landscape that evolution didn’t set them up to understand. When colours are bright, without a lot of light-dark contrast, our visual system can’t figure out what it’s looking at. Black and soft at the same time stalls our brain, leaves it hanging, like “What???”

Anyone watch Suits? Filmed in Toronto, I just learned. You can tell who looks like $$ and I bet we’d all agree. There was this banker…black jacket and soft pink-brown blouse. Her outfit said, “This isn’t how the world works.” When her outfit spoke for her, as outfits do, it said, “I may be confused about how the world works.”

Summer type neutrals: When colour gets out of the way, more gray appears. Suddenly, small colour steps = meaning! This novel is rich with detail. The viewer’s reaction: “I get you.”

Somewhere in between Winter and Summer where colour and darkness balance out, we get information about how things feel. New perceptions arrive, the texture of Autumn and transparent shine of Spring, the rounded, deeper light of 3D Autumn and flatter, newer light of 2D Spring.

You don’t have to know anything about vision or design. That’s all been done for you. Wear your palette and reap the rewards. People think you look great, their biology rendering them helpless to think anything else

10. Strategic logos or none. Logos are a time and place thing. Colour and design ring true on people with similar colour and design and then the magic happens (or the opposite magic of shiny plastic). Money doesn’t try to look like money and logos do. Money speaks for itself and logos seek status and recognition. Colour analysis explains to you the colours and finishes in metals will look like money with your intrinsic colouring.

11. Wear makeup ‘expensively’. Like it came out of your face by itself and looks real. Easy on the eyelashes and keep them fairly separated. The difference is often in the brush. IT cosmetics makes great mascaras. SuperHero’s brush has wide spaces so lashes clump together more. Hello Lashes has a smaller spaced comb that makes smaller gaps with enough stiffness to comb out, a fabulous product.

12. “I work from home and can’t figure out what to wear.” Yes, you and a million others like us. I think there are ‘comfort clothes’ that have glamour, she said as the stylists cringe. I’m thinking of the city wear that lines like Lululemon make, their trouser cut pants for example . Do you have Mountain Equipment Co-op (MEC) outside Canada? You’ll have plenty of others. Nothing is for everyone, a lot of it is boxy camping clothes, and compromise is part of life, but some of it has a certain glamour and dresses up fine. For the painfully practical like me, these clothes have interesting colours and maintain shape and colour well. If the doorbell rings or you have to get on Skype, no need to feel panicked. If you don’t see another soul all day, you feel happy that you didn’t think about your clothes and were so productive.

Wardrobe health is like physical health, financial health, or mental health. Yes, all loaded terms. When they’re in good shape, we don’t think about them. They operate behind the scenes, having received the attention that empowers them, so we can get on with our best life.

That’s colour analysis in a nutshell. You can do this. You already are this. We just have to connect you. Give a colour analyst an afternoon.

How to Look Expensive Part 2 at Calla Studio

For Part 2 of this series, you are invited to visit the website of colour and line analyst, Florentina Mossou, of Calla Studio in The Netherlands.

The post is linked here.

I believe that the more ways we have of seeing the same thing, and sharing those experiences with one another, makes the world better.

I enjoyed reading this post, written by a woman who is younger than I, European, and has highly refined eye for body type and its essential role in choosing the most flattering attire.


How to Look Expensive Part 1

Z asks:

Christine, could you please make a video on how to use color to look “expensive”? In some industries (real estate) you need to look successful. In Vancouver, BC, it means expensive before you’re actually successful. What do you do, when you have neither desire nor resources to look like a fashion slave (a highly respectable look here by the way ;-)) BUT still want to project the mandatory image of success?

 

Fashion slave – yes, a recognized look everywhere.

Too often, attention to appearance is considered vanity. As colour analyst Naomi Eastman in Vancouver said, it’s no different from improving a home’s curb appeal before selling it. A more attractive exterior invites people to imagine being part of the image, wanting to belong, and the house sells faster for a higher price tag.

In this series of posts, I will focus on colour’s effect on appearance. Colour analyst Florentina Mossou, owner of Calla Studio in The Netherlands, will join me later to offer ideas relating to body shape and scale, a.k.a. line analysis.

I Googled ‘how to look expensive’. Tailored looks, boxy bags, white this, black that. The most surprising part was how the advice never seems to change, which might mean enduring, but in this case, I think it’s acknowledgment that there is no single way. Mainstream advice applies to a tiny fraction of readers, usually the blogger herself if the advice is specific.

Regarding the white and black, this is a traditional combination worn successfully by persons whose natural colouring comes mostly from Winter. They are called True, Bright, and Dark Winter. If we play the odds, with more Winters in the world, more advice might be delivered to the right ears.

Which kind of Winter? There are 5 and most belong to a group other than True Winter. Those in Japan and the Southern USA not the same. Where I live, there are many Winter Caucasians with wide variation of skin tone. Indian,  Arabic, which usually differs from Egyptian,  Indigenous North American, and many others. Winter appears in some part of their colour make-up but the proportions vary. For many, black and white may be a detracting choice with a better alternative.

We also have many Caucasians in Canada, with varied genetic influence. Asians in Western Canada, Scots in Eastern Canada, evolving into a less Eurocentric population than we once were. Many have darker skin tones, and yet contain no Winter at all, and are better flattered by neutrals other than black and white.

With influence from continuous human migration and the variable immigration policies of different countries, human colouring may be  more varied than in the past, with proportions that may depend on where we live.

Is mainstream advice speaking to all of these people equally?

Should you be listening equally?


The video is also here on YouTube.


Looking expensive that works

1. As the video explains, know your relationship with colour. Personal colour analysis (PCA) shows you the effect that you and colour have on one another. If you are warm in colouring and cool pastel colours make your skin look green, what’s the point? If the robin’s egg blue looks like children’s clothing when it is next to your colours, what’s the point? Save yourself a lot of time. Start with  a PCA.

2. Neutral clothing can go either way. Although not quite automatic sophistication, the less-is-more appeal is undeniable. Winters look terrific in large areas of one or two neutral colours. Summers are dreamy and lovely and elegant in entire outfits in a blend of neutral tones. Springs look so good in colours that even neutrals are colourful, as brown, green khaki, or bright navy blue. Autumns excel in depth effects, be they light to dark, texture, or layers.

Neutrals are the most challenging colours to select but we have good tools to help. If the colour is neutral and the style is too simple, the look can be of long gray dresses and surgical scrubs. Florentina will go into this a bit more, I expect. Colour is inherently energetic, memorable, easier to select, and occupies the viewer’s attention. Neutral colours are like the support structures, like bark and ground and air. They have to belong to the image (lead and carnations are not as easy together as feathers and carnations) while at the same time, being a kind of blank or negative space.

Colour done right looks like money. – Christine Scaman

3. Neutral makeup colours. Not trying too hard is part of looking expensive. That’s because we prefer to think and do the opposite of what we’re told, asserting our freedom to decide for ourselves.  Appearance is great when it could have happened by itself, grown right out of the body that wears it, meaning the same colours and lines as yours.

Neutral makeup colours are more inherently part of the face. Brighter colours should be applied with good judgment and be in your palette. If the colour is not part of your inherent make-up, it will stay apart from the face when added as makeup.

Certain warm colouring groups wear beige or brown eye makeup beautifully; they are the 3 Autumns and True Spring. Everyone else might look mushy or undefined, while an expensively made up face is crisp and clean. A safer choice may be medium gray that doesn’t have an obvious colour component, in a darkness level adjusted to yours, so that the eye doesn’t appear smaller or dominated when circled by liner.

Whenever you read anything, the reader’s first decision (responsibility) is to decide how credible the source.  Instead of knee-jerk beauty,  ‘last seen in a magazine, young, thin, on YouTube, wearing blingy stuff’, look more carefully. How about ‘dusty pink eyeshadow next to yellow green eyes’ and ‘dusty pink top next to dyed blonde hair’. If those seem beautiful to you, carry on. To me, the people are beautiful and at the same time, their eyeshadow and eye colours are getting in each other’s way. Take care what you put next to your eyes.

As with attire, we come back to, which neutrals? The closer together colours are, the more profoundly they affect one another, with better or worse outcomes. Once on the face, the colours are in such proximity to our own that the good or less-good colour interactions are powerful.  Second, makeup has to blend with our colouring while clothing and jewelry sit on the surface.

Spring coloured people have a very different neutral blush from Autumns. Think of the distance between juicy peach and terracotta. If you could narrow your most natural blush to carnation (Summer), adobe (Autumn), coral (Spring), and red-violet (Winter), you’d be in a good place. Once you have the blush, pick a lipstick in a similar colour.

 All makeup is eye makeup. -Christine Scaman

4. Organized shopping. Wandering and not knowing is how we get talked into stuff or buy impulsively. If you shop with a friend and you know,  “Pastels are my way of wearing light colours.” and she can say, “Metallic effects flatter me.”, you know how to shop for you and advise her.

In Canada, The Bay (and I hear it’s coming to Holland) has a huge inventory online, excellent shipping and returns, and tons on sale. The striped top from the I Shop For You video of the previous post is by Guess, cost me $30.  I see this on every website.

Impulse purchases are the junk food of our closets. -Christine Scaman

5. Wear jewelry. When the right colours and shapes meet the right body, the expense level increases. Know the right shine for you. I enjoy Autumns in brushed surfaces and deep, rich metals and minerals; Winters in dense, shiny metals and jeweled stones;  Summers in brushed surfaces and opalescent to pearlescent shine; and Springs in light shiny metals with twinkle and sparkle in the stones. Choose the one where you and the piece show each other’s best qualities to keep the expense level climbing, not falling.

6. Wear makeup if over 30-35 to maintain feature separation from the canvas (the face). It looks like energy and youth and evens the playing field with younger people. Know the right shine for you. I prefer Autumns in matte to metallic finishes; Winters in cream to lacquer (expensiveness level of vinyl determined by person and place); Summers in soft shine to cream (all lips should look moist); and Springs in crème to gloss. Ultra-matte lips are never appealing to me, maybe I’m too old to get it but I really hope the trend is soon replaced. Lips that literally look like earth…the thought bubble in my mind: ?

I would love to say that nobody needs makeup, and it is each woman’s choice. As a realist and a moderate person who can always see both sides, I acknowledge that we are compared to others in our industry.  In some industries, morning show hosts perhaps, everybody’s off together but two wrongs don’t make a right; we have accommodated the work costume.

Trust that as your best you, the viewer will get it. With subtle makeup, the viewer feels refreshed. Looking other than the pack may offer us identity and leadership qualities.

7. Line analysis. Classic styling (think of flight attendants) has been the custom in many workplaces and many people choose the tradition for their work attire. If others might look at you and not find any similarity with Mrs. Partridge (of the TV show, The Partridge Family) or Princess Kate, there may be a better choice. Non-classics wearing classic styles may be unexciting compared to other possibilities. At other times, folks have such aversion to fuss and frill that they over-simplify. Florentina will speak more about this, I am simply here to endorse a form of self-knowledge that will make your shopping and presentation better.

8. Carry a purse in a great colour. Black and tan bags can be overlooked unless they’re spectacular. Functional is fine but if it stops there, it goes unnoticed. We want to be remembered for all the right reasons.

9. Have an expensive-looking pen, pocket mirror, and phone (and tablet case). These can be small expenses with a big payoff.

10. Wear red. Few do. It can be downright thrilling.

 


The header image was taken at The Secret Garden tea shop in Vancouver. Highly recommended.


 

Introducing Colour Analyst Tsikinirina Ralisoa (Belgium)

Michael A. Singer’s book, The Untethered Soul, is among my top rank reading for spiritual maturity and living life without emotional fears and external controls. On page 27-28, he describes a consciousness experiment that is magic for anyone gathering truth.

The colour analyst is measuring the optical illusions in the face created by colour. Very early in our time together, Tsiky recognized on her own the necessary detachment, the deliberate turning off of the analyst’s own thoughts, to allow the “instantaneous snapshot of consciousness just seeing”, as Singer describes it. “When you just look without creating thoughts, your consciousness is effortlessly aware of, and fully comprehends, all that it sees.”

This switching off of the analyst’s own “me” and connecting with another person, a stranger, quickly enough to read the subjective information of feeling, symbolism, and association, can take time. They have significance because the visual story that others hear about us as a result of our appearance choices is more related to these than to technical observations. Within three clients, Tsiky surprised me consistently by connecting appearance with feeling. Of a True Summer model, she went beyond measuring, “The lip colour is more present and natural.” and could say, “I can feel more drawn to her gentleness in this colour.”

Every student brings PCA some beneficial part of their spirit and story. Every client group needs their spokesperson. Every industry can multiply their ability to respond to client needs by diversifying their membership. Tsiky’s clients will be rewarded with a colour analyst for our time, who has replaced Authority with Authenticity.

For Tsiky’s French-speaking clients, my introduction is repeated  below (with thanks to Sonja Mason for the translation). Tsiky’s own words will appear in French first and then in English.

Je vous présente l’analyste de couleurs Tsikinirina Ralisoa (Belgique)

Le livre “The Untethered Soul” de Michael A. Singer occupe la première place sur ma liste de lecture essentielle pour l’acquisition de maturité spirituelle et aussi pour ceux qui veulent mener une vie sans peur ni contrôles externes. Sur les pages 27-28, il décrit une expérience en prise de conscience qui a un effet magique sur ceux qui sont à la recherche de la vérité.

L’analyste de couleurs (ACP) évalue les illusions optiques, qui sont créées par les couleurs, sur le visage humain.  La quantification de ces illusions optiques assure l’objectivité de l’analyste en neutralisant ses préférences de couleurs personnelles, ses aversions individuelles, sa tolérance envers le risque, l’influence de ses amies, le lieu, les modes, l’âge, la race et tout autre facteur qui concerne les êtres humains et la couleur. 

Depuis le début de notre relation professionnelle, l’analyste Tsiky a démontré qu’elle a compris l’importance du détachement et de la nécessité de désactiver ses pensées personnelles pour permettre « l’aperçu instantané de la conscience qui observe », comme le décrit Singer. « Quand nous étudions quelque chose sans faire place aux pensées actives, nous sommes bien conscientes de tout ce que nous voyons et nous le comprenons sans effort. »

L’analyste doit nier le “moi” et arriver à former une connexion avec autrui assez rapidement pour interpréter l’information subjective des sentiments et du symbolisme. Cette capacité est développée avec le temps. Après avoir consulté trois clients, Tsiky m’a surprise en démontrant déjà la capacité d’établir un lien entre l’apparence et les sentiments. En évaluant un mannequin de type Vrai été (True Summer, en anglais), elle est allée plus loin que l’analyse de base, « La couleur des lèvres ressort mieux et parait plus naturelle. » Elle proposa plutôt, « Je suis attirée davantage vers sa douceur quand elle porte cette couleur. »

Chaque étudiant contribue à sa façon à l’ACP en partageant son esprit et son histoire personnelle. Chaque groupe de clients a besoin de son représentant. Chaque industrie peut augmenter son potentiel en répondant aux besoins des clients et  en diversifiant les catégories de ses membres. Ses clients auront droit à une analyste moderne, qui remplace l’Autorité avec l’Authenticité.

From Tsiky,

Cela fera bientôt deux ans (novembre 2015) que Christine m’a gentiment invitée à vous rencontrer ici sur son site.

Je ne l’ai jamais fait…disons, que le moment est venu seulement aujourd’hui ! vous comprendrez pourquoi en lisant des souvenirs de mon voyage à travers ma couleur.

Mais ce serait mieux si je me présente d’abord, non ?

Je m’appelle Tsiky (exactement comme cela s’écrit). J’ai échangé les couleurs tropicales et la mer turquoise de mon île natale pour de gaufres chaudes, du chocolat et un peu de grisailles de l’Europe mais surtout parce que c’est là que ma famille m’attendait !

Je suis maman d’un Pioupiou de 8 ans ( Chut ! Il ne faut pas lui dire que je vous ai dit son surnom, il n’aime plus trop être appelé Pioupiou car il a grandi) !

Attendez ! Je crois que je dois aussi vous présenter quelqu’un ou quelque chose ! Il n’est plus là ! J’aimerai quand même vous parler de lui car notre rencontre d’aujourd’hui est en partie grâce à lui! Cela vous intéresserait ? Je voudrai vous parler de mon Ennui.

Malgré toute la joie, toute l’occupation que le fait d’être une mère active puisse m’offrir ( subir), un nuage d’ennui est venu s’accrocher à ma vie de tous les jours.

Un ennui lourd venant de nulle part, me poursuivait, me faisait bâiller, m’empêchait d’apprécier ce que j’avais déjà ! Me volait une partie de mon bonheur.

J’ai cette impression de ne pas être là où je devais être . Pourtant, je n’avais nulle part où aller. Et toute somme faite, je pourrai être bien là où j’étais.

Ma famille a l’air joyeux et en bonne santé ; je passe de bons moments avec mes amis ; les personnes en difficulté socio-financière que je guide dans mon travail parviennent à remonter la pente et sont contents de notre collaboration.

Pourtant, j’avais cette impression qu’il manquait quelque chose. J’avais envie de partir !

Tous les matins, je me levais avec cet ennui et je m’endormais avec lui, nous étions devenus inséparables malgré notre rapport divergent et notre relation secrète.

Plus je le détestais, plus il s’accrochait à moi !

Il me poussait à errer, à faire des choses sans signification, à perdre mon temps.

Il avait transformé ma vie en routine, je faisais ce qu’il y avait à faire pendant la journée. Le soir, et le week-end mon ennui exigeait une tête-à-tête avec moi ! Il me poussait en errance, à la recherche de quelque chose , j’ignorais ce qu’il voulait. Il m’avait chuchoté quelque chose dans laquelle j’ai cru comprendre vaguement « l’apparence ».

Pour le tromper, je collectionnais les magazines de mode, je suivais toutes les nouveautés, cela avait son importance pour moi de savoir quel designer dirige artistiquement quelle grande maison de couture ; j’essayais d’être une fée du ménage, j’essayais de devenir jardinière, je mangeais des glaces, je buvais du café ,j’essayais ..de me sauver de cet ennui. J’avais tout essayé mais rien ne pouvait satisfaire l’avidité de mon ennui ! Il continuait à creuser un vide au milieu de ma vie.

Il n’arrêtait pas de me pousser vers cette « apparence » que je ne parvenais pas à très bien cerner !

Quelle apparence ? Les magazines de mode , il n’en voulait pas, mes achats des dernière tendances non plus ! je partais à la recherche de quelque chose. Quoi ? Je l’ignore

Lors de mes errances cybernetiques, je suis tombée sur des sites me parlant de l’analyse de couleur personnelle. Je n’en ai jamais entendu parler. J’étais intriguée.

Je commençais à m’y intéresser. Parmi ces sites, j’ai découvert 12 Blueprints. Ce que Christine Scaman y décrivait me parlait beaucoup ! J’ai délaissé mes tasses de café pour y boire ses paroles. J’ai annulé mes abonnements de magazines de modes pour lire tout ce qu’elle écrivait sur son site, j’ai abandonné mes coupons de shopping. J’ai laissé tomber à vouloir tout savoir sur les maisons de couture. J’ai rompu avec les pâtisseries. Je n’ai plus peur de manquer quoi que ce soit ! Tout ce dont j’ai besoin c’est d’apprendre un petit peu plus sur l’Analyse de Couleur personnelle.

Tout ceci est nouveau pour moi ! Les colorimétries pratiquées dans les émissions tv m’ont laissée très sceptique, je ne m’étais jamais intéressée à la coloration humaine ni à la mienne.

Je commençais à m’intéresser à d’autres méthodes, à comparer d’autres information avec ce que j’ai lu sur 12 Blueprints.

 

Sans m’en rendre compte, on a claqué la porte derrière moi… mon ennui m’a quittée ! J’ignore le moment exact de son départ. Je me sentais toute légère avec de nouvelles ailes. Il a laissé sa place à Ma passion.

Ma passion m’a ouvert un portail, j’ai décidé de prendre une nouvelle route. Moi qui voulait partir ailleurs, une nouvelle destination s’est ouverte devant moi. Je voudrai devenir analyste.

J’ai pris un vol direct Bruxelles- Toronto, Christine m’a acceptée comme élève.

C’est la première fois que j’étais analysée.

Quand Christine m’a fait découvrir ma coloration à travers ses étoffes : j’en avais les larmes aux yeux. Je venais de comprendre ma place dans cet Univers.

Une fois rentrée en Belgique. J’étais persuadée que je suis arrivée à bon port, que j’ai tout ce qu’il me fallait et que je peux repartir en paix. Non, je me suis trompée.

Je commençais à apprivoiser mes couleurs… j’ignorais que ma passion allait m’emmener faire un long, très long voyage ; m’occuper de l’apparence physique ne suffisait pas, à chaque fois que j’ajustais une couleur, j’étais également en train de m’ajuster intérieurement, l’harmonisation continue à se faire intérieurement et extérieurement. Cela a pris du temps et continue toujours à prendre du temps.

Vous avez compris pourquoi j’ai mis deux ans avant de vous écrire cette histoire.

J’ai traversé le chemin qui mène à l’exploration.

Il est à mon tour maintenant de tenir la lampe pour vous éclairer le portail par lequel vous allez commencer votre part de voyage !

Vous méritez d’être vu et d’être aimé exactement comme vous êtes.

Le temps d’une analyse, laissez-moi vous donner les outils pour que vous harmonisiez votre éclat extérieur avec votre beauté intérieure car « Vous pouvez, être,avoir, faire tout ce que vous désirez si vous vous habillez pour”.

Le jour où vous déciderez de venir me voir, je guetterai votre arrivée par la fenêtre, tellement j’ai hâte.

J’ai hâte de vous rencontrer, d’entendre le son de votre voix, de partager des couleurs avec vous, d’avoir des heures colorées avec vous, de vous dévoiler tout votre potentiel naturel resté caché trop longtemps.

La nature vous a transmis un secret, ensemble, nous le découvrirons à travers les étoffes et les pinceaux.

Oui, des pinceaux !!! ma passion d’analyste a ramené une petite sœur, une passion pour le maquillage. Cela fait 9 mois que je fais partie des élèves d’Annick Cayot ! Et je continue encore à apprendre avec elle.

Ne vous inquiétez pas, notre rencontre semblera trop courte, tellement nous aurons des choses à nous partager !

A propos, je ne vous ai pas précisé que vous pouvez me trouver dans la région de Mons en Belgique. A deux heures de route de Paris et à 45mn au sud de Bruxelles.

Mais en attendant ce jour de rencontre, je suis très curieuse ! J’aimerai aussi vous connaître et entendre votre histoire.

Faites-moi plaisir ! Envoyez-moi un petit coucou à info@stellagraphy.com , nous y continuerons notre discussion ou venez faire un tour sur https://www.stellagraphy.com

Merci d’être là !

Two years ( november 2015) since Christine kindly invited me to meet you on her website.

I never did so before. Let’s just say that the moment arrived only today. You will understand why as you read the memories of my colour journey.

But it would be better if I started by introducing myself first of all – don’t you think ?

My name is Tsiky pronounced exactly as it is written. I exchanged the tropical colours and the turquoise sea of my mother island for the hot waffles, chocolate and a little greyness of Europe, but, above all, because it was here that my family was waiting for me.

I am the mother of a little Pioupiou of 9-years-old. (Shush- don’t let him know that I told you about his nickname. He doesn’t like to be called Pioupiou these days as he has grown up so much !).

Wait! I think I must also introduce you to someone or something else ! This « entity » is no longer here ! I would like to talk to you about it because our meeting today is, in part, thanks to his « thing ». I would like to talk to you about my Boredom.

Despite all the joy, all the occupation that being an active mother offers me, a cloud of boredom started to hang over me daily.

A sense of heavy boredom from out of nowhere followed me, made me yawn, stopped me from appreciating all that I already had, stole part of my happiness.

I had the impression of not being where I should be. However, I had nowhere else to go. And after all, I could be okay where I was.

My family seemed happy and in good health ; I enjoyed good moments with my friends ; the people in social/financial difficulty whom I guided were able to lift themselves up and were happy with our collaboration. However, I had the impression that something was missing. I wanted to get away !

Every morning I got up with this boredom and I fell asleep with it at night ; we had become inseparable despite our diverging secret relationship.

The more I hated this boredom, the more it hung on to me !

It caused me to make mistakes, to do things without meaning, to waste my time.

It had transformed my life into a routine ; I did what was needed during the day. In the evening and at weekends my boredom demanded a face-off with me. It pushed me to wander, to look for something ; I don’t know what it wanted. It had whispered something to me and I believed vaguely that I saw the « appearance » within.

To deceive it I collected fashion magazines, I followed all the news, I could say which designer ran which fashion label artistically ; I tried to be a house-wife fairy, a gardener, I ate ice cream, I drank coffee, I tried…to save myself from this boredom.

I had tried everything but nothing could satisfy the avidity of my boredom ! It continued to dig an empty hole in the middle of my life. It wouldn’t stop pushing me towards this « appearance », which I couldn’t quite understand.

What « appearance » ? The fashion magazines ? it didn’t want them. And my latest purchases neither ! So I went looking for something else. What ? I wondered what I was looking for !

During a cyber stroll I chanced upon those websites talking about the personal colour analysis. I had never heard of this before and was intrigued.

I grew interested. Among those websites, I discovered 12 Blueprints. What Christine Scaman described spoke to me a lot ! I pushed my coffee aside to drink in her words. I cancelled my fashion magazine subscriptions in order to read what she wrote on her website. I dropped my shopping vouchers. I gave up wanting to know about fashion brands and their producers. I broke away from the cakes. I was no longer scared about missing something. All I wanted was to learn a bit more about the personal colour analysis.

This was all new to me. The practical colourmetrics in Tv programmes had left me skeptical. I had never been interested in human colouring on my own. I started taking an interest in other methods, started comparing what I learnt from 12 Blueprints.

Without realizing it, the door had slammed shut behind me and my boredom had left. I din’t know the exact moment of its leaving. I felt very light with new wings. Its void had been filled by My Passion.

My passion opened a door to me. I decided to take a new route. I had wanted to go somewhere else and now a new destination had opened itself up to me. I decided that I would like to become an analyst.

Christine accepted me as a student. I took a direct flight Brussels-Toronto.

It was the first time I had been analysed. When Christine made me discover my colouring through her drapes, I had tears in my eyes. I had just understood my place in this Universe.

Once back in Belgium, i was sure I had arrived at the right port, that I had all I needed and that I could re-leave. But no, I was wrong.

I started to tame colours. I didn’t know that my passion was going to take me on a long, a very long journey.

Just lookng after my physical appearance was not enough ; everytime i adjusted a colour, I was equally adjusting myself inside ; the harmonisation continued taking place internally and externally. It took time and still continues to take time.

You have to understand why I took 2 years to write this story. I crossed the path which leads to exploration.

It is now my turn to hold the lamp to illuminate the doorway for you through which you are going to start your part of the journey !

You deserve to be seen and to be loved exactly as you are.

With just an analysis, allow me to give you the tools so that your external self harmonises and shines with your internal beauty because « You can be, do, have anything you want : get dressed for it ! »

The day you decide to come to see me will be the day you’ll find me jumping up and down at the window like an excited child as I have been looking forward so much to this day.

I cannot wait to meet you, to share colours with you, to have coloured hours with you, to unveil to you your natural potential, which has remained hidden for too long. Nature has transmitted a secret to you ; together we will discover it through drapes and make-up brushes.

Yes brushes ! My passion as an analyst has brought with it a little sister ; a passion for make-up. I have been one of Annick Cayot’s student for one year now , I am a certified makeup artist and still learning with her.

Don’t worry if our meeting seems too short ; it will be ! because we will have so many things to share.

Speaking of that, i did not point out that you can find me in Belgium, in the region of Mons, just two hours from Paris or from Luxembourg and 45 minutes south of Brussels. You can jump in a flight from Italy, Austria or Switzerland, easy-peasy.

But, while waiting for our chance to meet, I am curious ! I would also like to get to know you and hear your story.

So make my day and send me a little hello at infoatstellagraphy.com. We will continue our discussion there, come and visit my website.

E: info@stellagraphy.com

W: https://www.stellagraphy.com

Thanks for being there.

Tsiky

 

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