3 Types of True Winter

Without the 12 colour harmonies created for the Seasons by Kathryn Kalisz, founder of Sci\ART, I would never have seen and felt the unique language of each Season. Would have missed it completely. I know this for sure.

Some of the colours are provocative and unexpected, but your reaction is, “For goodness sake, would you look at that? How did she know?”

Palettes in which colours are random or leave you with reactions of, “Give me a break, that would never belong here.” are not able to capture the spiritual beauty of each Season.

True Winter’s Voice

True Winter’s spirit might be especially elusive, perhaps why it defies verbal descriptions and has become the subject of so many attempts to define it. The unique radiance of True Winter speaks to me as space and solitude on the most majestic, mysterious scale. It is the silence of the ice cave, the rising of a blue white moon over a frozen lake, the jewel that resembles a planet, the yellow flower that could be the sun.

The earthly images always seem to be metaphors for another immensity, the power of a quiet that cannot be confined. The drapes feel the same way. They hold reserve and dignity, as does True Summer, but with seclusion that sets them apart from the empathic, emotional, approachable quality of Summer.

Something about their ultimate nobility makes them as private and isolated as royalty. They are so apart, so elevated from everyday life around them, dismissing the busy fun of Spring and work ethic of Autumn, that they appear concerned with a higher ideal. If there were one Season for which I am happy to see people own their Luxury Drapes, it would be True Winter, a group of colours that seems less willing to compromise what they stand for. No other Season continues to surprise me as much.

True Winter Appearance Variations 

Few people guess themselves correctly to be True Winter in their natural colouring, or Season.

If eyes and hair are dark, they tend to guess Dark Winter. We have seen the photos of Sandra Bullock and Kim Kardashian. I’m not convinced about Kim. If you like to guess from photos, get past the colouring of the face where, let’s face it, you’re looking at eyes and hair, and imagine the person wearing the palette. The entire palette – lips, cheek, jewelry, hair, not just clothing. Do you think the Dark Winter lipstick might look like smeared food on Kim? I do.

I will add a Pin of Teri Hatcher to the Pinterest Makeup board today. Whatever kind of Winter she is, while true that the lip colour is way the heck better than some nude or brown colour, it seems to me a little flat and smoky relative to the eyes. Lips are not supposed to look smoky. Dark Winter lipstick might do so compared the other Winter lipsticks, but it won’t be that way on a Dark Winter face. It will be vibrant, exciting, healthy, and normal.

If eyes and hair are grey or blue, the person has been 2 or 3 Seasons. The overall appearance seems milder than the very dark eyes and hair person. One doesn’t expect it to balance the True Winter palette. Hair might be black brown or silver. Summer drifts through your mind.

If hair is blond (very rare in adults if we are talking about yellow blonde, I can think of one), light brown, or red-tinged, or if eyes look warm (think of Catherine Zeta-Jones, not saying she is a True Winter), Spring or Autumn pop up in the backstory.

Here are 3 types of human manifestations of the True Winter colour group. There are probably about 6. Doubtless, I would find many others if I lived in a more racially diverse place.

The Dark Hair, Dark Eyes True Winter

This is Elaine DeFehr, our analyst in Winnipeg, Canada.


Elaine can wear very high colour saturation. The architecture of the face loses when colour contains the wrong kind of yellow. The face flattens and the features smear.

I could have said, “The architecture of the face loses when colour contains the wrong amount of yellow” but I didn’t.  Saying True Winter contains no warmth or no yellow seems wrong. Every human being contains yellow. If yellow is how we define colour warmth, then everyone is warm, that’s not right either. The right question is, Which yellow does the skin contain?

Warmth of colour is relative. We only know it depending on what is next to it. The yellow in Elaine is cooler (bluer, which gives it a greenish cast) than the neighbour Seasons’ yellow. Her skin won’t compromise about that, meaning that placing another Season’s yellow next to her face reduces her presence and beauty in various ways. This is still consistent with the definition of a True cool Season.

Foundation has to match overtone and undertone. How cosmetic companies label and pigment their foundations vary widely. You want the colour that disappears. Elaine’s foundation looks fairly dark and might be labeled warm, to match the olive-yellow skin tones. In this photo, she wears very little foundation.  Face, neck, and ears are all the same colour.

Elaine sent me samples of her favourite red lipsticks, knowing that I am searching for one for the Blueprints cosmetics line.

TW reds

This type of True Winter looks better in red makeup than fuchsia. Elaine’s favourite is the second one, Ultima II Rampage. I liked the Smashbox colour a lot also. I wonder about the NYX Lip Pencil moving close to Bright Winter, as the purple gets stronger and the yellow becomes less obvious.

You’d think Bright Winter red would be yellower, but with red, the yellow of True Winter is more perceptible. This is not true of pink, purple, or fuchsia though. I often wonder why Kathryn placed the red swatches far from the fuchsia ones in her swatch books, at least in the version I own. Something about these colours behaves differently. In my palettes, the reds are on the same strip as the yellows.

You can contact Elaine by email at elaine@yourcolourharmony.com


 The Lower Contrast True Winter


The Is-She-A-Summer True Winter

A woman arrives to model for our recent analyst training course in Vancouver. Let’s say her name is Emma. No, it would never be Emma.

We scatter so many funny clues about our Season around us. Email fonts, names.  Marion is a total Autumn name. Colleen, an Autumn name. Many Soft Summers are called Barbara.

This woman’s stature is arresting. She is about 5’10”, maybe taller. Half First Nation, half Irish/Scottish. The skin colour is Caucasian but unusual, without much colour, as if you had to describe the colour of window glass. The skin is opaque, not transparent or fragile at all. Hair is dark brown. Eyes are medium gray-green.

Though her appearance had plenty of impact in the power of the body, the colours might have slipped into the Medium column. A hair product with a wet-look finish made the hair seem darker than it was. Afterwards, the students and I asked ourselves what Seasons we considered before the colour analysis: True and Soft Summer, True and Dark Winter.

While guessing at Season by appearance is very seldom correct, the value of it is to be sure that those drapes get evaluated before the person leaves. Whatever Season they look like they are, or the facebook group or the visiting aunt will say they are, has to go across them.

Her name could be Linda or Lauren. Maybe Maureen.

Funny to me that I can’t recall if her top was purple or black. I’m not certain how much she knew of PCA, but she was sure she knew her Season. Well now, we see this person all the time. They are right 1 time in 40. There she sat, watching the whole process, perfectly undisturbed with our many Season trials, quite secure that she would be right. Dang if she was.

I doubt we could have convinced her out of True Winter, but she was right so our job was easy. She was very amenable to appearance suggestions as long as we stayed inside TW. For eg, as a probable YangNatural in image archetype (great article here at Best Dressed explains IAs), we suggested replacing the wet finish of her present hair product with a matte or natural finish product.

Hers were among the most interesting colour reactions I have seen. The most pronounced variable, meaning what changed the most, was the texture of her skin. We could not eliminate True Summer in the early stages, the appearance being ok but not shockingly great in pure black.

Isn’t ‘perfect in black’ the rule for True Winter? Nothing applies to every face. That’s why the system cross-checks results from 112 colours in about 20-30 comparisons. Besides, early in the PCA process, the analyst does not know the face well enough to make big decisions unless she is 1000% certain.

At the Red Test stage, the picture began crystallizing. She was clearly of true cool colouring. Only at this stage did her eyes begin reacting – or did I understand her face well enough to see and interpret it. Fascinating.

This True Winter can be, if not monochromatic, then not very colour-animated to look at. The skin can be beige gray with little natural blush. The eyes and hair colours would not look much different on a B&W TV.

It takes Winter colours for the person to appear, let alone clean up and sparkle up. You don’t know till you try it. Nobody can think the way to a Season. Put the colour on, then compare with another colour, then decide. Humans make decisions by comparing.

Luxury drapes are very helpful to customize the Season for this person. Matte and textured fabrics were excellent. Next to shiny, smooth, slinky fabrics, even in her Season, the skin appeared more textured. B&W felt too sharp for her soft, steady character. The combination said things about her that were not true. Black-brown was striking, a moment when the Feeling folks in the room wipe away tears. She was fabulous in all purples, easily tolerating any amount of red and darkness level.
Every person in a Season is encouraged to wear all the colours. Narrowing down the palette gets a little repetitive and unnecessary. The person often narrows themselves right out of the Season, breaking up the  magic. The question is where and how much of the various colours will be worn, in which shapes, textures, and prints.


 The Odd True Winter


You’re Wrong, She’s an Autumn!! She’s a Spring!! True Winter

My daughter, Alexandra. You met her before in a post about PCA and Teens. I’ll introduce her once more.

Ally Prom

Dark brown eyes, quite orange-red headed as a child, now light-medium brown with a definite red (not so much orange) cast. If I could come up with an analogy…been trying for 20 years.

Many Winters have purple tones in the hair and yellow in the eyes, mostly True and Brights. Our analyst, Rachel in Philadelphia, is an excellent example. I love these faces in a purple-black-brown eyeliner because the eyes look even yellower. The eyeliner seems very natural on the face because it is an extension of the hair colour. With the clothing and jewelry, the whole thing is just so amazing. Rachel, if you read this, would you leave a comment about the name of that MAC liner we bought? Raisin something? MAC makes a similar colour in another type of liner.

I can be surprised to see eyes that go to black and a person being placed in Seasons without something close to black in the palette. What exactly are they going to wear to give them head to toe balance, with clothing an extension of how they are coloured? I appreciate that eyes are supposed to be the focal point but we don’t get there by fading away the rest of painting. A few recent pins of Richard Gere in the Men’s Pinterest board show you what I mean.

Alexandra’s skin is very pale. She doesn’t look it. Colour is never what we think we see, remember, or predict. Doesn’t work that way. Colour is a reaction in present time. We didn’t evolve to see colour exactly. We evolved to see well enough to eat until we mate. Our visual system compares. It compares colours, contrasts, edges, movement, something, and then it decides. So put the two colours together and decide. Not 3, not 5. 2.

To give you foundation colour context, Clinique Alabaster foundation goes on dark and gets more yellow by the second on her face. MUFE’s lightest colours also turn into heavy gold streaks, giving her a yellow face on a white-gray neck. Their very white 205 blended into the neck but would have been too white as a full face. Bottle after bottle, however cool the product in the bottle, it applied yellow and went more so by the minute.

Thanks to Aislin and the great staff at the Sephora in Windsor, Ontario, we happen upon NARS Sheer Glow in Mont Blanc. Perfect, perfect, perfect. Light enough, with the correct type of yellow and no colour shifting. Face and neck in perfect unison. If we ever shop together and I say, “There is nothing about that that I don’t like.”, buy the thing. We bought this bottle. The coverage isn’t all that sheer and might need mixing to create a less pancake effect.

Here is a nice post showing you the colour with a few others.

Alexandra is best in fuchsia-purple cosmetics. They find the same tones in her hair and eyes. Red can look heavy, partly due to her age, and not as good an extension of the face. Bijou is her beautiful best gloss in the Blueprints makeup line. The eyeshadow palette creates a lovely pearly taupe grey, not as red as MAC’s pretty good Satin Taupe for True Winter.


 What’s the lesson?

Season is where you start. Within a Season, the people all share more in their colour reactions and essential aspects of their colour dimensions than they differ. Having this information, when you shop, you know what to look right through, it’s not for you. Inside your Season, the person is an individual. The 12 Blueprints analyst will coach each client in using the palette and cosmetics to best effect for her.




25 thoughts on “3 Types of True Winter”

  1. Fascinating. I was typed as a Winter back in the 80s and it has always fit. I feel like myself in the True Winter palette as well. Over the years, I considered Dark Winter but gold jewelry was the deal breaker. My skin has an absolute aversion to it, along with any discernible warmth in lipstick. I have very dark, cool hair and one-color brown eyes, but my skin is a clear, cool light-medium olive and I look best in purple toned makeup. My reds have to be very deep and blue, no warmer than a red delicious apple. Might I be a fourth type?

  2. Thanks, Christine, for a fascinating post. What’s funny is that I’ve been wondering about exactly what you wrote about for months. I know this girl who is possibly of Irish heritage with medium brown hair and hazel eyes who at first glance looks like a True Summer because of her overall coolness. Nevertheless, muted colors make her look pasty and tired and the brilliance of her skin and eyes is only visible in black, Pure white, and colors with high saturation. She has never been draped, but it’s thrilling to let go of the stereotypes and consider the possibility that she may be a winter, possibly True Winter. I have never seen her wear obviously warm colors… Perhaps because she knows instinctively that they don’t look good on her.

    Kristy, I have not been draped yet (I haven’t had a chance to see a 12 BP analysis back in America yet) but I relate to everything you wrote. And I am East Asian! I’ve always wondered why colors like peach and gold that I’ve seen many Asian women wear well do not flatter me. Mac Red lipstick (the basic crayon red) makes my skin sallow and uneven in tone. I’ve met my lipstick “soul mate” in Mac Rebel, because nothing clears my skin like it does. I just never expected myself to look this good in such a purple-y red color!

  3. Hmm.. I would be that type of True Winter whose best red is in the raspberry-to-grenadine range with freckled light skin, translucent, turns most all foundation very, very yellow (occasionally pink). I still haven’t found a good one, though I will look into the NARS recommendation. Any cosmetic with brown on it turns to mud on my face, but lip color that is further in the magenta-pink range seems shocking pink on. (I found a semi-sheer rosy red I like for everyday – not perfect, but good. Don’t worry, I wear lips!)
    Darker brown hair with nearly purple shadows and very orange highlights and mid grey-gold eyes which often read green. A combination of two and three, as described, perhaps. I look warmer than I am.
    For the curious – I’m 85-90% British Isles, majority of that Scottish & Irish; the rest a mix of Northern Europe – Scandinavian, French, German.
    I was also interested by the musings about names. I don’t particularly like my given name (it’s a fine name for others, I don’t feel identity with it). I enjoy reading your blog, thank you.

  4. Mac Raisinette. And I also wear Mont Blanc.. You know what’s great? Dior Airflash in 100. I like it best sprayed on the face but one needs a headband to cover the hairline.

  5. Interesting and lovely article. For the nars shade you mentioned what other seasons can wear this? Because this is the only one ive found I can wear because every other is dark,yellow,orange,brown,etc just like you mentioned for her.

  6. Thank you, everyone, and to Rachel for that information.

    Kristy – a 4th Winter? I have never met this person so I cannot say. However, 2 things come to mind. One, I do not live in a very racially diverse place, though having seen a few of most races, I still find the palettes represent their pigmentation no worse or better than Caucasians. Also, as races mix, maybe there will be more and more Winters and further segmentation of that group, or some added insights on how they use the palettes, might be useful. Please don’t anybody take this as an idea that this is needed today. I do not believe that at all. It’s in the Nature of Winter to take a little more management in various ways.

    Cassafrass – who wears a foundation depends on the woman’s skin, not her Season. I’m sure you knew this and wondered what other Seasons are using this colour. As Rachel says, BW could. I’m not familiar with anyone else. Summer skin is not nearly that close to white usually.

  7. Christine, interesting that you mention racial diversity. I am from the southeastern U.S., lots of different ethnicities here. I myself am Greek, Scandinavian, and Native American, with a few dashes of some other surprising exotic stuff I’ve learned about thanks to DNA testing. I have lots of trouble with foundation as one would expect. I am kind of rosy, yellow, and green all at once. It is surprisingly hard to find a medium beige that doesn’t go too far in either direction.

  8. Fascinating post, Christine. I suspect I’m a True Winter who is both dark and was analysed years ago (in the 4 season system) as an Autumn. Everyone sees Autumn. I can guarantee at least one autumnal coloured scarf most Christmases.

    I’ve tried True Autumn (no facial definition, skin like clay) and Dark Autumn (heavily brown shadowed – I look exhausted), Dark Winter (shadowed, but better than DA), Bright Winter (the colour is six feet in front of me, and in the mirror I see slightly waxy, oily skin and slight yellowing, especially of my eye whites) and Bright Spring (glowing yellow skin! Plus too bright and too light). I never considered True Winter until very recently because I’ve never found a white that doesn’t turn me (more) yellow. Perhaps I’ve never found a truly True Winter white, or perhaps some True Winters can’t wear even their best white right under their chin….or both. I do wear very sparkly silver and crystal jewellery – crystal earrings just look so right.

    True Winter looks and feels right. Strong enough colours to equal the intensity of my colouring without making my nasty, yellow-green-grey, pale olive skin look even yellower. My eyes ‘pop’ in many Bright Winter colours (dark amber eyes with very blue whites), but in True Winter I look balanced and my eyes are truly centre stage. Unlike when I was trialling the Brights, people don’t comment on the colour; they just say I look great, healthy, glowing. Glowing! In cool True Winter colours! I even bought some TW make-up. I’ve never worn much make-up beyond translucent powder, mascara and lip gloss, as nothing I tried ever looked right (and I’ve never found a right foundation). I bought a cheap dupe for Mac Rebel and it looks….so normal, easy, right. So does the rest of my make-up.

    Of course, I may be utterly and entirely wrong. I can’t know for absolute certain unless / until I have a proper PCA, but for now, I look in the mirror and like what I see.

  9. Thank you Christine I do know that hehe. I was told I’m bright spring so I was curious if youd herd of that being used for one before. In my case me season def isnt very warm warm feeling like have to be careful for oranges and corals but pinks reds or pinky-corals are good for lips and even some surprisingly darker shades. Brown and earthy makeup and clothes can be rough to if done wrong for me. Its rather fun because everyone Im close to ,we are all different seasons and how colors react is really fasinating ^_^

  10. Loved this post! And it gives me an opportunity to ask for more elaboration on something I’ve been wondering for a while: How do you tell a Bright Winter from a True Winter, especially the TWs that gravitate towards black, white, and red (like your first example there)? I feel like we hear a lot about the warm side of BW, the gals who are surprised they can carry such intense colors because they easily get mistaken for mousy. But what about those of us who sit on the other side? I know I can carry intense colors, but I go back and forth on how warm I should let it get. (Btw, I’m East Asian.) I would love to see a post on that!

  11. At this level of detail, Joyce, you require a colour analysis to know your ranges and tolerances for certain. It is not uncommon to meet TW who can tolerate quite high saturation, but they are not favoured by the type of warmth in the Winter Neutral Seasons. They require TW’s very cool yellow. It takes very calibrated drapes and an analyst who knows what to look for exactly.

  12. So interesting! Your daughter is the first person I’ve ever seen with coloring similar to mine! I’ve never met anyone else with nearly-black brown eyes, light skin without obvious freckles, coppery hair as a child, medium blonde with a slight copper tinge as an adult. Her hair might be even be still more red than mine, but aside from that, we seem quite similar.
    I haven’t been draped, but I suspect DW or TW. It took me a long time to get there, though, and a lot of people think I MUST be a warm season.

  13. Dear Christine, Like Teresa and your lovely daughter Alexandra, I am most probably a True Winter with much lighter skin than it looks, red tinged hair, dark brown eyes, yellow tinged skin which looks very sallow near any warmth. My hair was quite light when I was young and still goes light in the sun. Since I’ve been a teenager I’ve been labelled Autumnal by my well meaning friends who had dabbled in Colour Me Beautiful with their mums. I later went for a CMB consultation and was draped as Deep Autumn. I knew after trying DA make up something was wrong, it was ageing. I now wear colours that are purely cool and in wear them in high contrast. Whether my best are True Summer or True Winter, I couldn’t say. There is a slight softness to my skin which makes it a little black and white averse ( a bit harsh) but can carry off very intense colours, so long as they are cool. An analysis would be interesting.

  14. Hi Christine, I was wondering if you ever see darker red hair, blue eyed true summer’s? I am northern irish, German, English with a touch of France! Both parents are brunettes.

  15. That’s not a common one, Laurel, but I would not discount the possibility.

  16. Thank you Christine. I am being draped by Rachel N. On August 6th and very much looking forward to it! Such confusion with cool/neutral skin I believe and darker reddish hair that was more orange when younger. Blue/ green /Gray eyes with a touch of yellow. I have believed myself to be a light Spring,light summer,bright spring, or some kind of winter. I’ll find out soon!
    I love your book

  17. Great article!

    How would the “Is she a summer” winter person deal with black? White? Black and white? Adjust the contrast level?

  18. I feel that I am a True Winter that leans into Cool Summer. I have a light to medium pinkish complexion. There is nothing warm about my coloring except my hair which is a neutral medium brown that has some red in it. I was a sun bleached Strawberry Blonde as a child. Also I tan to a medium reddish tan. My eyes are a medium bright greyish green with a darker grey green(almost black) lining. I have some yellow in them towards the top of the iris. They have a spoke type pattern as well. They have an iridescent glow to them when exposed to bright light. The whites are clear as well and not yellowed.

    I look stunning I have been told in most saturated aquas, blues and purples. Some pinks look good as well except coral, pastels or greyed ones. Watermelon looks alright. Greens are tricky. I have to go with pine green or emerald. Any other green makes me look ruddy. Sage green does it as well.

    My makeup is all about the cool tones. Some neutrals are too warm and appear orange-ish. Not pretty. Who wants to look like a clown? Lipsticks are best with some blue in them. My best color is Mac’s Rebel and Chanel’s Recit. I also use lighter barbie pink lipsticks like Mac’s Snob or Mac’s Please Me and gets lots of compliments. I cannot do any “nude” lipsticks either. They just sit there and wash me out. Pink with blue is always best.

    I thought I may be a Clear Winter but really bright shades of clothes and lipsticks are a bit too much for my face. Black actually makes my face glow. Stark white also gives my face clear definition. I have always instinctively been drawn to true winter colors my whole life. I get the most compliments when I wear them as well. I am not sure of course as the drapes do the confirming but when even slightly warmed or grayed clothes make me look sick and warm makeup muddies me I can hazard to guess.

  19. It depends on the person, Denise. Sometimes, they are magnificent, completely clean and crisp and striking. Sometimes it’s a bit sharp, just as it can be on DW and BW, and she is better to drop the contrast to ice beige with black, light gray with navy, or other combinations. Great Q.

  20. Also about the Is she a summer cool winter – what would be a balanced lipstick for her to wear ? Same intensity as high congrats, or sheer due to low contrast ? Personally, the TSu xover TW lipsticks are perfect for me. Always on the alert for more advice.

    Another question is about your dark brown drape. Is this colour in your colour fans or neutral swatches ?

    Would a TSu also look good in this dark brown ?

  21. Hmm, I think a close friend of mine may be a “Is-She-A-Summer True Winter”; she’s a natural light ash blonde (with relatively dark eyebrows for a blonde), so most people would automatically rule Winter out, as the general view is that there aren’t any blonde True Winters, or they are very few… But TW colours are actually better for her than TSu ones, overall, as concluded by my “amateur” drapings for her ;).

  22. Great article.
    I want to ask some questions, because it’s really hard for me to find good lipsticks. Do you know some TW red lipsticks that don’t lean bright? I looked for Mac’s perpetual flame to try it, but in Spain isn’t available.
    I’m 23, and I can’t do the brightness of the BW lipsticks I tried, it looks really fake and tiring, and that’s why I ruled it out, but could it be an age thing?
    Now I’m exploring TW, and I tried Revlon Raspberry pie, and it’s not bad, but there’s something I don’t like, and I’m not sure if it’s the brightness level or that it is just too pink.
    I wear better red with pink in it. I have a lip gloss like that from a cheap brand, that I don’t know where would it belong, but suits me.
    So, the other question is, could it be that I just can wear lipgloss because of my age?
    Thank you Christine!

  23. Obviously true winter with fair dark skin used to have black hair but lightened to med ash taupe brown.most articles say always say no orange but in the original book..color me beautiful…it says orange can look good.it does if its true and intense like true red.im not inclined to deep winter..and no pumpkin or bronze colours in winter months and light gold forget it…but intense brilliant orange is wow along with true winter colours.i find staring at black and white in wardrobe gets monotonous.ppl see these colours as if your a baracuda.taupe is nice but i thought of some colous that could be blue such as taupe bamboo and teak..i wondered if i was a deep winter but only the true winter colours make my skin look clean and clear.it should be noted mixed colour skin isnt necessarily warm though it appears so and deep winter pallette is warm for sime as you illustrated.also a winter doesnt have to be high contrast as stated in article.ppl in general hate the winter pallette for nuance because its strong.i love the colours but they need new ways to mix in wardrobe.for some reason people have an aversion to the winter pallette in cold climate canada.another i was wondering is mixing colours to heather tones such as fushia purpltles and grey or creating new camoflage colours..so autumn or summer.winter needs these in differing social environments.black and white red outfits give the impression youre the head honcho…oh yaa theres gang colour aspects

  24. I wonder if Dark Winter would similarly contain “The Lower Contrast Dark Winter” or “You’re Wrong, she’s a Soft Summer!!” type of Dark Winter…? As I feel I may be the latter ;) (From my looks alone I’d be instantly put into Soft category by most systems, but soft colours do nothing for me, they mainly just really wash me out…)

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