The Right Sweater For Dark Winter Men
January 4, 2010 by Christine Scaman
Our first job is to define the principles of all Winter dress, since Seasonal Colour Analysis for clothing absolutely applies to men. This way of using colour and style probably extends to the Dark Autumn, who has enough intensity in his personal colour palette and the Winter trace that allows him to wear clothes in a Winter way.
That way is as follows. It is expensive, smooth, poised, and formal. Patterns, and prints are balanced and repeating, not random. This is an image of wealth and luxury, of tailored clothing and timeless design.
One could not necessarily call it reserved, since the colours of Bright Spring are all-out, freewheeling, highly saturated colour. (See What Are Clear And Soft Colours? for the meaning of saturation in colour).
The Dark Winter is certainly reserved, to the point of being serious. This group shares all Winters’ quiet mood, but with dark colours. There is nothing playful or youthful here.
What does the Autumn hint bring in? First, it brings in a little brown, which warms and mutes the colours. They seem less distant and cold. Autumn also allows a bit of texture, without getting into rugged cable knits that are too functional and not polished enough.
Smooth cashmere and wool work very well.
I also like a ribbed sweater, like the one above at Banana Republic, as long as it’s not too chunky. It respects the impression of the Winter style, so repeating and balanced, but introduces a little texture. The rough surface is the bridge to Autumn.
Zip-neck sweaters are great if worn in a formal way. A full-zip feels to me too much like a hoodie, too juvenile or casual, almost sloppy.
Horizontal stripes are too sailboat or rugby shirt. This group expresses “serious” best.
Argyle comes in every colour. Does it work if the colours are Winter? To my eye, the styles don’t mesh. All those zigzags in argyle are too animated, and look hectic on Winter’s quiet energy.
This is a beauty at LLBean, in the colour Mountain Red. It’s shown in the catalog with a white shirt and looks sharp. With a charcoal pant, casual or formal, this guy is getting noticed for all the right reasons.
V-neck, crewneck, and turtleneck all feel good on these men (only my opinion). The choice of shirt is important. The aim is simple drama. An iceberg has simple, quiet drama. A circus does not, it has complicated drama. A day on a sailboat has no drama.
The colours should contrast strongly (very light with very dark). Dark charcoal, eggplant, or ruby, with a crisp white shirt. An icy grey shirt and a midnight blue sweater.
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Great article. Please write more on mens style. I think I am a dark autumn and I’d love to know more about what that means. Actually I’m curious about everybody. Thanks so much.
Hi, Darren,
I LOVE working with men. PCAs on men are technically more difficult than women. The changes and optical effects are harder to see, but I completely enjoy it. And I completely love seeing a man shop with confidence and look like he owns his world. Makes me feel good.
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